Mt Tongariro

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Tongariro Northern Circuit and Southern Circuit

Date: 23-25 December 2021

Time: 3 days (34:15 hours)

Distance: Approximately 90km

Mt Ngarahoe only just showing his head.

Christmas time is usually a time for family. And while we are ‘orphans’ in our new home without any family to share the holidays with, we usually try to get into the mountains and away from the hustle and bustle of this time of year.

A good “gettin’ away from it all” for us is usually at least a five-day tramp. But this year we decided to do five days of fast-packing and hence cover more ground. First up is something I’ve been wanting to do since the first time we walked around these mountains (2010, 2013, 2016, and 2018) – a continuous trip around both Mt Ngarahoe and Mt Ruapehu, cutting out the stretch of shared track between the two mountains. The first question was, should we go clockwise, or anticlockwise. We opted to go clockwise.

Continue reading →
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Tongariro Alpine Crossing – 19.4 kilometres

At the start on a cold, windy, misty morning, Johann, Nettie, myself and Gerry.
Gerry and I. [Photo: J&N]
Reassuring to see the green light, but still a scary thought of crossing active volcanos.
View towards the west with Mangatepopo Hut just visible on the right.
The last toilet stop before heading up the mountain. No wonder it looks like a busy morning at the farmers market.
The scary sign before the big climb begins. It’s amazing how many holiday-goers still take on the mountain in jandals, t-shirts and jeans despite the warnings.
Everything is quickly frozen in the wind. Luckily we had a tail wind going up.
Still some patches of snow, just to remind you that it’s not summer yet on the mountain.
Grass icicles. [Photo: J&N]
We discovered a nice little bench (made from old sign poles) behind a rock sheltered from the worst wind. Was too cold to stay long.
An old wooden sign-post halfway up the mountain adding atmosphere to the walk.
It’s hard to imagine an icy 65km/h wind when you’re sitting in front of your computer. 🙂
Nettie and I having a bit of fun at the Red Crater saddle.
Ice, wind and mist combining to create an unforgettable experience.
Very very cold wind up there.
En route down Red Crater on the northern side.
Mist starting to clear a little to give us a lovely view of Emerald Lakes. [Photo: J&N]
Time for tea and a biscuit.
Next to Emerald Lakes.
With the mist clearing, we were treated to some wonderful scenery.
A view of Red Crater with the path we came down with visible on the right. [Photo: J&N]
Time for some fun in the snow.
Gerry at Blue Lake.
Looks like a beach made of snow.
Majestic mountain scenery. [Photo: J&N]
Quick lunch break, huddling between some rocks for shelter.
We only had little bits of slushy muddy snow on the track.
Te Maari crater that popped twice in 2012, causing a track closure, is stil fuming.
[Photo: J&N]
The last few kilometres through indigenous forest.
The finish at Ketetahi carpark on the northern end of the track, is a couple of hundred metres lower than the start.
These volcano warning signs feel a little surreal, but they’re really quite scary.
Happy to have had the opportunity to make the trip.

 

“New Zealand’s oldest national park and a dual World Heritage Site. The Tongariro National Park is rich in both cultural identity and dramatic, awe-inspiring natural scenery. Unique landforms, including the volcanic peaks of Ngauruhoe, Tongariro and Ruapehu ensure the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is considered a world-renowned trek.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is heralded as the best one-day trek available in New Zealand, while others say it ranks among the top ten single-day treks in the world.

Many who complete the 19.4-kilometre journey will tell you the climbs can be steep and the weather unpredictable, though worth it in every aspect.” [http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz]

Since relocating to NZ a few years ago, we’ve wanted to do the full crossing. But every time something else comes up. Or the weather turns nasty. Or the mountain pops, causing a track closure for about nine months. You know how it goes. This time we had our hearts set on Labour Weekend when we could be joined by Johann and Nettie. Continue reading →

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Mt Tongariro summit and back – 19.5km

Glasses would have helped to combat weary eyes, protecting them from the cold.
The cone of Mt Ngauruhoe is hidden in the mist in the back.
The first few kilometres of the path is well built and maintained, to help combat erosion.
First bits of snow visible as we make our way up the mountain.
A bit of sludgy snow.
South Crater is still extensively covered in snow.
The start of the final 1.5km to the top of Mt Tongariro.
I guess this is what is called a “white-out” – when mist and snow become one and you can’t see the horizon or anything other than white.
The narrow slippery path on the side of the mountain got a bit scary at times.
Gerry at the summit.
And me. 🙂
Still up for a bit of fun.
Not sure why I decided to have a little sit at this point.
The beacons still visible, this one buried rather deep.
Mainly off the snow – heading down to South Crater.
The wind threatened to blow me off the mountain.
Minus seven degrees Celsius is rather cold.
Stopping for a bite to eat and a short rest before heading down the last bit.
Having some fun in the snow. Just don’t take your gloves off for more than a few seconds.
Uhum. Just goofing around with an ice pick that wasn’t really necessary.
Dark clouds looming in the distance.
South Crater.

 

It is very hard to imagine temperatures of minus seven degrees Celsius, in icy winds and sleet, when you are tucked up cosy and dry in front of a fire. We were contemplating the day ahead over a cold happy hour beer in the comforts of The Park lodge in National Park Village, before turning in for a good nights sleep.

In the morning we chatted about the weather to the gentleman who prepared our breakfast – a friendly old bloke who’s probably lived around the area forever. He gave the mountain one good look as thick clouds were rolling over the mountains tops, and announced with a chuckle: “maybe your hike will turn into an adventure!”. Bummer? Yay? Always trust the local knowledge. But not to be deterred, we quickly grabbed out stuff and headed towards the Mangatepopo Road End where we parked the car for the day, hoping we might beat the looming inclement weather. Continue reading →